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#Feature | Matt Hui : Designers are problem-solvers
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2023.03.06

Buying new clothes has become easier over time, due to fast fashion and the convenience of online shopping. It’s easy to be impulsive when shopping and that means, for many of us, overflowing closets. We no longer understand how to appreciate a genuine fashion item or the craftsmanship that behind it. Matt Hui, the founder of local embroidery brand YLYstudio, and his partner Lilian Tsang established the brand in 2017 to combat fast fashion and encourage people to cherish their clothing while rediscovering the value of high-end fashion and embroidery. Hui believes that embroidery can be applied to both formal and casual attire. Recently, he’s begun working with the local fashion collective Fashion Clinic, which focuses on eco-friendly fashion. While designs may vary, their original purpose remains the same: through redesigning old clothing, they hope people will learn to appreciate every garment they own.

In an era where everything is done “fast”, how can we encourage more people to appreciate the aesthetics of embroidery and craftsmanship?

Matt: In addition to our own designs and collaboration, we offer classes. Our embroidery workshops are longer than other workshops so participants can not only learn how to embroider but also become acquainted with fabrics, materials, and craftsmanship to better appreciate fashion.


You collaborated with Fashion Clinic and Calvin Klein on a sustainable project last year. Could you tell us more about this project?

Matt: Due to the pandemic, YLYstudio’s clothing line was suspended two years ago. We began collaborating with Fashion Clinic in 2019 and launched the Fashion Clinic Collective to redesign vintage clothing. I’ve been trying to define exactly what a designer does. Designers are problem-solvers; just as YLYstudio’s initial objective was to combat fast fashion, Fashion Clinic aims to find sustainable fashion concepts. Numerous brands simply dispose of unsold clothing, which is extremely unsustainable. Calvin Klein wanted to dispose of their excess denim inventory in a more environmentally-friendly manner. Fashion Clinic upcycle them into new collections while also creating an installation and storefront window display.


In terms of sustainable fashion, what is the biggest technical challenge?

Matt: Typically, when working with a factory, one begins with a piece of fabric, which is considerably less complex. However, disassembling an old garment and remaking it is a laborious, yet intriguing, process. The most time-consuming and difficult task is figuring out how to solve the issues of remaking a garment while decreasing the time and labour required and making it affordable.

This year, Fashion Clinic will collaborate with more brands to assist them in re-designing their unsold garments into new products, with the hope that these partnerships will increase public awareness of sustainable fashion. Sustainable fashion isn’t a big conversation among the Hong Kong population. Sustainable fashion is often still viewed as a do-it-yourself project, but it can also reach very high levels of design sophistication. As an example, designer Marine Serre employs the production approach to create original and visually appealing garments from old clothing.

Managing a successful fashion label in Hong Kong is no easy feat. What words of wisdom do you have for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Matt: To become a fashion designer used to mean learning how to use clothes as a vehicle for self-expression. But these days, designers aim for a deeper human connection rather than just relying on their own unique point of view when creating clothes. To become a fashion designer used to mean learning how to use clothes as a vehicle for self-expression. But these days, designers aim for a deeper human connection rather than just relying on their own unique point of view when creating clothes. It is difficult to operate a brand in Hong Kong, due to lack of resources and space. But if you are determined to do so, you should go ahead and give it your all. Now we live in a social media-savvy era, we can take charge of our brand’s marketing and promotion efforts. Many international micro-market brands have emerged from this model. Being committed is the most important thing. I know it is a cliché, but I still firmly believe that perseverance is essential to turn dreams into reality.






Interview & text : Calvin Wong



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