FASHIONALLY - #FAfeature | In Conversation With ROBERT WUN

#FAfeature | In Conversation With ROBERT WUN

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2024.11.11

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On trailblazing couture, power of passion and advice for the next generation of designers

We should never underestimate the power and influence of a fashion moment. On September 3, Hong Kong-born couturier Robert Wun celebrated the 10th anniversary of his eponymous brand with a homecoming show at Palace Museum, marking the very first time that the Paris Couture Fashion Week-approved couturier is hosting a show in his hometown.

As the dusk fell and the lights lit up by the red gate of Palace Museum, guests including Chinese actress Bingbing Fan, Canto-pop icons Kelly Chen and Stephy Tang, art directors William Chung and Man Lim Chung were welcomed to a red set of over 100,000 Chinese incense, a symbol of roots. Hong Kong award-winning actress Kara Wai opened the show in a signature ‘rainfall’ crystal-embroidered couture coat with matching hat. Twenty one models were sent down the runway in some of the designer’s now iconic creations—not a single guest left the venue without being impressed and touched. That was the fashion moment that Hong Kong needed and couldn’t be a better kickstart to fashion month September.

Ten new looks were presented, featuring a neon open-back chiffon gown inspired by Guanyin and a purple hooded gown cradling a baby in tribute to his grandmother. For the first time, Wun explored woven rose patterns, inspired by the Hong Kong thrift shop Mee&Gee he used to go. All the references are subtle rather than literal, which is often expected in how Chinese culture is interpreted through design. This nuance is what makes Wun a breakout star in the couture world —his modernity and craftsmanship, combined with a personal touch. “I was brought up in Hong Kong to see a lot of successful musical icons and cinematic icons, and to find that inspiration and that strength through it,” Wun explains. “A lot of these designs are anchors, something personal about my family, and also something Hong Kong people would understand.” He finds it interesting that Western media is intrigued by the polka dot gown inspired by Hong Kong singer Paula Tsui but doesn’t relate to it as locals do. “I love that, because they know that, okay, it's a personal reference, but you would never understand it, they still love it regardless. And I think that's the whole aim, for me, is to create that beauty that is personal,” he says. After headlining the Centrestages Elites show, Wun spent some time at the Centrestage fair as well as meeting the finalists of Young Designer Contest 2024. In a candid conversation, Wun opened up about his own journey, the challenges he faced, and the invaluable lessons he's learned – insights that could prove transformative for the next generation of fashion talents.

A Global Perspective
Wun's path to success was anything but linear. As a Hong Kong native, he and his family initially felt the city's creative environment may not have been the right fit to nurture his fashion ambitions. "To have a successful or a good education when it comes to creativity, that's the very initial beginning of how, why I moved [to London at the age of 16]," he explained. It was in the British capital that Wun truly found his footing, immersing himself in a diverse, international community that would shape his worldview. "The great thing about London is it kind of makes you see the world in a very different perspective, because you're living in the world, so you're mixing the cultural mix," he says. This global mindset has become a cornerstone of Wun's design philosophy, allowing him to connect with audiences worldwide. "Especially for nowadays landscape, to be a designer, to be in fashion, you need to understand, who are you talking to? Because it's no longer a local market or regional market. You're trying to speak through the world." he noted.

The turning point in Wun’s career came when he won the prestigious ADAM Award in 2022. Taking home the Fashion Awards Prix Spécial led to mentorship with Chanel President Bruno Pavlovsky, allowing him to unveil his first haute couture collection at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week—making him the first Hong Kong designer to do so. Since then, Wun’s designs have been worn by global style icons such as Beyoncé, Celine Dion, Lady Gaga, Adele, and Björk. He has also designed costumes for the Royal Ballet, the hit film The Hunger Games, and beyond.

Embracing the Diversity of Design
For his homecoming show, marking his return to the city after the pandemic, Wun was pleasantly surprised by the maturity and grace of the local design scene. His show was produced and curated in collaboration with old friends from the creative industry and local talents. While meeting the finalists of the Hong Kong Young Designer Contest, he discovered a diverse range of talented designers, each with their own unique approach and perspective. "There's a very beautiful range of designers – someone that is more conceptually leader, someone that is more technically needed, and knows exactly what kind of designer they wanted to be as well," Wun observed. "They've got their factory sorted. They know how to make clothes that can sell. And they're designers that, like, I want to be more like an artist, that want to make garments that would take two, three weeks just to paint.”

For Wun, this diversity is not only welcomed but essential. "There should be the whole fashion system that has a different kind of design that wants to do different kinds of businesses, or to go different kinds of paths," he said. "And I thought that was so exciting, because they all usually share passion, you know, in creativity.”

The Power of Passion
When it comes to advice for young designers, Wun's message is clear: never lose sight of your passion. "The moment I realized that I wanted to do fashion, the moment I went to Mee&Gee to do my first pair of jeans, and I went back home and I cut on the side seam and spin it around and hence, stitch it back together, I always remind myself of those first moment, those joy, those purest form of passion," he shares.

Wun understands the challenges that come with building a brand from the ground up – the lack of funding, support, and recognition. But he urges young designers to use those obstacles as fuel, rather than letting them extinguish the fire within."Wherever, no matter how far you go, no matter how difficult things are, and how much money is starting to get involved, and how stuck you are on the creative perspective, always look back at those genuine passion beginning moments, and then, like all of this is just overthinking," he said. "Everything will resolve itself, and since success and failure, you can't predict and you can't control, you can only try your best. Live with that passion, keep that passion like the first piece of garment you put together, and then let that guide you for the rest of your journey.

Fostering a Supportive Ecosystem
While passion is undoubtedly crucial, he acknowledges the importance of brand image building and resonates that it might get lost in the beginning especially in a world of noises. “One thing I think people sometimes forget about fashion brands is you're trying to tell people that you're worth a lot more than actually what you deserve. You know that image takes a lot to build. People shouldn’t have expected that this will happen in a second, or try to gain design that is quick and easy, or change your design to fit into a certain dynamic or a certain type of demographic,” he says. “Because you need to ask yourself, if you want to build a successful brand, it needs to be timeless. It needs to last. It shouldn't be about a certain age group or geographical or cultural group. It should be global. You've got to ask yourself this question, because if you want short term success, then do as you please. Run with it. And then once you start down, start another time. But it's your name on the line. So what do you want? Those are questions you can ask.”

The couturier who has established distinctive visual language among his peers shares his advice on finding a unique selling point: “It’s about finding that balance between two worlds. How did the people in your old days make it? They made it through extreme control and a high-budget campaign. It's a photo that is completely timeless. That's what they produced in the old days for their marketing. Nowadays it’s about a short time. How do you grab attention really quickly? What would be the modern interpretation of beauty and timelessness? You need to look at both. Because now you live in the future and the personal world. But also you can't completely forget about what makes fashion fashion at the very first place. So once you combine the two, then you find your inner voice. What are you trying to say with these two sides of the world of knowledge? Then find your own method to tell your story.” As the fashion industry continues to evolve at such a breakneck pace, the need for a nurturing, focused support system for young designers has never been more crucial for young, aspiring designers. He believes the current landscape in Hong Kong, with its myriad of trade shows and events, can sometimes leave emerging talents feeling lost and overwhelmed. "I do feel the next step is hopefully there will be a more stripped down, or perhaps an isolated program where they are not going to be in the mix of all trade shows. Then the industry will feel more like ‘Now I'm coming here to see (let’s say) three selected designers for the coming year of supporting the program. And I'm here to see that work, to see their voices, to see their shows, and to see where they want to go and help in any way that we possibly can.”

As Wun looks ahead to the next chapter of his brand, he is excited to explore new creative avenues and tell stories that may surprise his audience. "I'm ready to say more and tell more stories as well. You know, that people might not expect to see, but it's not coming from the heart to shock them or just surprise people. It's just what I have always been able to do. Now I feel like I'm ready and more capable.”

Text : Cherry Mui